By Christy Anyanwu
Adire, a Yoruba word that is the name of a globally popular textile material woven from cotton, simply translates as “we tie it, then dye it. That is basically how Adire is made, by tying the basic cotton in certain intricate, creative ways that produce unique designs on the cloth when dyed with indigo.
However, ‘tie and dye’ as an art form practised in Abeokuta, Osogbo or Kano, which are considered major hubs for the fabric, is not exclusive to Nigeria. Other countries such as Japan, Morocco, Mexico, China and Turkey have their own versions of tie and dye. But what makes the adire produced in Abeokuta unique is its general appeal and availability.
Speaking on the uniqueness of this fabric, renowned global designer and creative director of his namesake company and fashion design powerhouse based in London, United Kingdom, Ade Bakare said: “During a trip to Bamako, Mali, in May, where I was invited to showcase our collection that featured the use of African textiles, I was captivated by their own versions of the ‘tie and dye’,which was completely different from those available in Nigeria.”
Ade revealed that he started using Adire in his collections from 2010, and found that it could be applied to linens and silks fabrics.
“Over the years we gradually started designing our own unique patterns, which I found in old books on adire, especially a book written by a late Nigerian designer, Betty Okuboyejo (Betty O) in the late 70s and early 80s. She was the mother of fashion entrepreneur, Nike Ogunlesi. Also, I found other books on adire at the British Museum in London.”
To make these trendy styles, he uses both the traditional adire fabrics and his own designs. “The designs have become our signature styles such as Ila, Ilaari, Ododo and Orogbo. We are currently showing our new collection for summer 2024 in London, Knightsbridge this June.
“We were commissioned by the Kwara State First Lady, Prof (Mrs) Folake Abdul Razaq, to design a pattern of the cocoa pod, which she wears and has been a great success with our customers. Adire alongside other Nigerian fabrics such as Akwete and Aso Oke is now very popular and used by a lot of fashion designers.