By Josfyn Uba
Mary Egbo is from Ubulu Uku, in Aniocha North local government area, Delta State. Ubulu Uku community is synonymous with the weaving and production of Akwa Ocha, an indigenous hand-woven cloth from filtered, fine, tiny strands of raw cotton buds.
Egbo is highly sought after in the entire town and beyond because of her expertise in the craft of weaving. She acquired the skill from her late mother as an elementary school pupil and has trained her children as a widow. Daily Sun caught up with her while demonstrating her skills at the Forest Indigenous Arts and Crafts Market, located within the Delta State Film Village, Asaba, during the 2023 World Heritage Day celebration. She admonished the younger generation to show interest in preserving this age-long craft because Akwa Ocha is a tangible representation of the Anioma heritage.
What does Akwa Ocha mean for those who do not under the Anioma dialect?
Akwa Ocha or Akwa Olulu, literally means white cloth, which signifies purity, while Akwa Olulu means white cloth made from raw cotton buds. Some people call it Akwa Ocha while others call it Akwa Olulu. Whichever you prefer to call it, they mean the same thing. Basically, it is an indigenous hand-woven cloth made from filtered tiny strands of cotton and produced by the Enuani people of Delta State. This cloth is an integral aspect of the cultural heritage of the Aniocha/Oshimili people, or Enuani people.
Our people have so much respect for it because of its significance. It is not worn casually but only meant for special occasions such as traditional title ceremonies, cultural festivals, marriage and burial ceremonies. We also wear this traditional cloth for state or national events where we need to showcase our identity and tradition. It has become fashionable for people of diverse cultures to adorn it, proudly, in glamour and sophistication. Despite the foreign influence, we have preserved this aspect of our culture.
How is it different from the other hand-woven clothes from other parts of the country?
Our Akwa Ocha is unique in various ways. Like I said earlier, it is our cultural identity. It is not like any other cloth. It is different from that of the Igbirra people, even though the Igbirra people now produce it. We wear it with dignity and pride. As a matter of fact, when you look at it, you would see how the traditional symbols and motifs of Enuani people are intricately woven on the cloth telling our story, and depicting ancient religious beliefs. Our values, history and everything that make us a people are embedded in Akwa Ocha.
Again, it does not come in only white colours. It comes in other beautiful variants of colours. Even men, can now make whatever style of top and trousers they desire. These days, at any social events, you would see women adorned in glamorous designs. It is our pride and we must preserve it. Again, it is no longer as heavy and thick as it was it those days. This is as a result of modern technology and advancement in the kind of tread. Before, we used tiny strands of tread made from raw cotton buds to produce it but now, we buy rims of fanciful finished tread for it which comes in light and feather-weights so that the finished Akwa Ocha product is not as heavy as it used to be.
There is a history behind the Akwa Ocha in relation to special events in the olden days. Can you take us through that route?
The history wouldn’t be complete without talking about how the special process in which the cotton was processed to get the tread. And at that time, the men would plant the cotton, harvested it while the women sat down leisurely but painstakingly filtering it in the evening, processing it into strands of fine tiny treads which would be used to weave the Akwa Ocha. The process of weaving is very laborious too.
I talked about purity as the significance of this cloth. In those days, a bride was traditionally escorted to her husband’s home with one piece of Akwa Ocha and she was laid on her matrimonial bed for the first night where the trace of her virginity was proven on the white piece of cloth. Based on this, the bride, her parents, and the entire family would be clothed in dignity and pride.
Weaving this cloth was also a demonstration of a woman’s strength of character and sense of domestication. A woman should be able to weave cloth or better still purchase and give out as a gift to her groom from her proceeds. That was how remarkable and significant it was, back then. All is gone now because of modernization but we have strived to preserve our cultural heritage by wearing Akwa Ocha.
There is no doubt to the preservation of this aspect of your culture, in spite of all influences. But what is the fate of Akwa Ocha in the hands of the younger generation?
Much as everyone takes delight in wearing it, not many are keen to acquire the skill. It is an intricate craft. It is very pains-taking and time consuming to produce. It is not meant for those who are hasty. You need to be focused, calculative, and patience to do it. And how many people are willing to sacrifice so much time to produce a parcel of clothes while their mates rake in millions of naira in a twinkle of an eye? The problem is that today’s people are so much in hurry to hit the bull’s eye financially. They see this craft as old people’s job and a past-time for those who are in retirement. The younger ones lack interest in such laborious craft. It is a sad tale, though.
What do you suggest is the way out as a professional weaver?
I would be honest not to pass the bulk to the government. Government is doing their bit in this regard. Even, individual cultural enthusiasts are also doing their best. Looms have been set up in various cultural centres for people to come and learn at discounted rates or sometimes, free but few people only responded to these calls.
I do know that Dr. Newton Jibunor, (Desert Warrior) called for people to come for skill acquisition in his centre, in Delta, here, but only very few people responded. I have been here at this Forest Indigenous Arts and Crafts Market, there is a loom here, and I pray that we will have trainees. We need people to show interest. We love it that everyone likes to wear the cloth but they should also match their likes with the interest and enthusiasm to learn the skill so that it doesn’t die off. It is important to sustain the legacy of weavers and show interest to weave for commercial purposes as well as to promote the brand because it has gained global appeal.
What do you think are some of the hindrances in weaving Akwa-Ocha?
It takes a considerable length of time. It has a gestation period to weave one but it also depends on how much time I have to play with or work and the volume of job I have, too. It could take two weeks to one month to produce a piece of complete set. It is difficult to see a woman who would be ready to sit down and go through that kind of work. It saddens me that this skill of traditional weaving of Akwa Ocha is fast going out of fashion.
How did you learn this art of weaving?
I actually inherited it from my mother and grandmother. When I was growing up, the loom was a common sight in almost every home and an additional domestic accessory for every woman of character in Ubulu Uku. My mother was a master of the art. After school, I would sit down with her. I can’t really figure out the length of time it took me but I mastered it before I matured into marriageable age. I have been engaged in this venture for more than two decades.
I have traveled out of the country for exhibitions. I have met high profile people. Above all, it has sustained me and my family.
I remember that we used to get the raw cotton from the farm before processing it manually into wool for the making of Akwa Ocha. It was also time consuming. Now, everything has changed. We now, buy already processed materials from the market which makes it easier and better.
What is your advice to the few who show interest?
What I have observed, for some time now, although, in small measure comes from female retirees who seem to be re-dedicating their time and resources to learn the craft. For them, even if it is not for commercial purposes, they can design and make for their families, children and friends. I would encourage them to re-establish the lead in this venture and rekindle their interest for economic sustenance and development, no matter how little, because this trade is profitable.
Is any of your children interested in it?
Yes, my daughter can weave well. Not only does she weave, she can also set up the loom. It is one thing to know how to weave. It is another hurdle to be able to set up a loom. She learnt from me as a growing girl. And she is happy for it. I don’t regret it either because it has sustained me financially, as a widow.