By Ochapa Ogenyi
I grew up in Otukpo, Benue State, during the independence era to regard Sokoto as a very far-flung place, may be a city in the Middle East. This perception was not helped by the popular Nigerian saying that whatever you are looking for in Sokoto could be found in your Shokoto – meaning why go too far to Sokoto when what you are seeking for is within you. During a recent, first-ever visit to Sokoto, the seat of the Caliphate, I discovered that this long-held notion was not only misplaced but a complete fallacy. Sokoto is just a mere 45 minutes away from Abuja by flight, 15 minutes shorter than Abuja to Lagos.
So, when I was just settling for a long flight haul from Abuja to Sokoto on that fateful morning of Tuesday, November 7 2017, the pilot announced that we should get ready for landing. That was my first sweet discovery. But more were to come.
Another myth that gave way was the age-old impression that Sokoto, being the seat of the Caliphate and home of the great Prophet Shehu Usman Danfodio, would be soaked with an overbearing air of aristocratic arrogance by the populace, especially given the once-popular ‘born to rule slogan’, which was adopted by the Federal Roads Safety Commission. What I met there was different. The people were very simple, humble and unassuming. From the common people on the streets to the highly Very Important Persons, everyone was simply approachable, friendly and accommodating.
Here are some examples. During the period of the visit, Mallam Shehu Mallami,Sarkin Sudan Wurno, Nigeria’s former Ambassador to South Africa and scion of the dan Fodio family, marked his 80th birthday. It was a very low key event held at one of the Sultan’s meeting rooms. There was no lavish display of wealth and no live band.
The streets were not closed. No foreign wine or drinks were served; it was just local drinks, rice and tuwo.Such is the simplicity and general disposition of the people in Sokoto that Nigeria’s former President, Alhaji Shehu Shagari, the Turakin Sokoto until recently lived in a very modest, simple, old one-storey building in the Kofar Atiku area of Sokoto. The house, located in the heart of the talakawas settlement is so simple and without a fence; you then wonder if it belonged to a former president of Nigeria. The road to the house is not tarred and the environment is ordinary. Shagari’s old mate Mallam Mohammad Basulube, who still lives in the Kofar Atiku quarters told us that the former President was very reluctant to relocate to the Sama Road house at the government reservation area, GRA, which the Obasanjo government built for him as it did for other former Presidents, a few years ago.
I was more surprised when we also visited the house of Sir Ahmadu Bello, the late Premier of the North and Sarduanan Sokoto, along Diori Hamani Road, Sokoto. Though the building was recently coated with new paint, the building stands as one of the biggest manifestations of honest and incorruptible leadership, integrity and true service of any Nigerian leader ever. For a man who was Premier of the Northern Region, which presently comprises 19 States of the country, the Sarduana’s modest three bedroom bungalow is a big lesson for today’s leaders in modesty, trust and integrity.
Before you start rushing to conclusions that these were the attributes of yester-years politicians, you may wish to know that the present leadership of Sokoto State has learnt a lesson or two from both Shagari and the Sarduana. Unlike in some states in this country, it was not difficult to meet the State Governor, Aminu Tambuwal, the Mutawallen Sokoto, when our delegation led by the Minister, Federal Ministry of Industry, Trade and Investment, Dr. Okechukwu Enelamah arrived Sokoto. Thirty minutes upon arrival in Sokoto, we were ushered into the modest Government House in Sokoto to meet with the Governor who himself just returned from a journey about an hour earlier.
A similar meeting with another important dignitary, the Bajinin Gwandu, Alhaji Shehu Ambursha, was arranged with just a mere phone call. Yet another example is our own Minister of State, Aisha Abubakar, a Sokoto Princess, who is so simple in every sense: her dressing, open door policy, humility and comradely relationship with her aides. Don’t be surprised if you meet this unassuming Princess of the caliphate at Wuse Market or Sahad stores doing her groceries.
Sokoto is such a peaceful place that police road blocks are a rarity. In fact, it is anathema to see “area boys” fighting there. The Sakwatto people are traditionally very friendly people. The family of my next door neighbour in Abuja, Alhaji Bello Tambuwal, a retired Federal Director are so friendly that we share most things in common, our religious backgrounds notwithstanding. I was also very impressed with the cleanliness of the environment. Naturally, because of the long dry weather, trees have been planted along major streets in the city centre. But beyond that, the streets are generally clean, may be second only to Calabar. Food is quite cheap here. A bag of 50kg Attajiri Rice costs a mere N11,500. The same quantity costs N16,000 in most Nigerian cities. And if you are a lover of fura and kilishi please visit Sokoto. I am still relishing the sack load of the kilishi delicacy that I brought from there.
Nigerians may also have a lesson or two to learn from the maintenance culture of the Sokoto people. Take the case of the Cement Company of Northern Nigeria, which was established by Sir Ahmadu Bello as Premier of the North. Despite daunting challenges, the company, which was incorporated in 1962 and commenced production in 1967, is still in production with a rated output of 500,000 tons per annum. Surely, industries that are finding it hard to operate under the prevailing climate should please visit the CCNN and learn from them.
All this is not say that the streets of Sokoto are padded with gold. Certainly not. For instance, the magnificent Giginya Coral Hotel will do with a little renovation and better management. Something needs to be done to urgently take the teeming unemployed youths off the streets and I look forward to Sokoto assuming its old status as the major trading hub in the region.
Surely, the visit was so brief I couldn’t go to the numerous educational institutions in Sokoto, especially the famous Uthman Dan Fodio University. Not to worry. I plan to be back in Sokoto during my forth-coming vacation. I want to explore this city the more: its peacefulness, its warmth, the hospitality of her people, its cleanliness and of course I want to savour more of that local kilishi and fura delicacy.
Ogenyi is a Director with the Federal Ministry of Industry, Trade and Investment.