*When an animal is pet to some and choice food for others
By VIVIAN ONYEBUKWA and HENRY OKONKWO
“Do you eat dog meat?” A woman who simply identified herself as Bimpe was asked this question. Her response was vehement. “God forbid! Me, eat dog meat? Never. I would rather die than eat dog meat,” she replied with undisguised disgust.
Posed to him, Chika Okonkwo, a businessman from Anambra State, but resident in Lagos, also riposted in irritation and annoyance. “Do I look like someone who eats dog meat? I have never eaten it and I will never eat it in my life. Moreover, I am not from Akwa Ibom or Cross River State. They are the ones that eat dog meat”.
But for Sunday Okon, dog meat is a tasty palate’s companion. He loves dog meat and has been eating it since he was young. To him, it is not only delicious, but also nutritious and healthy for the body.
Dog meat is a delicacy that arouses extreme reactions. For some, it is one irresistible delicacy eaten with relish, while for others, even the vague idea of seeing it on the menu in a public restaurant is enough to provoke nausea.
Just last week, animal rights activists all over the world rose to kick against an annual dog meat festival held in the town of Yulin- a province in China, where as many as 10, 000 dogs were slaughtered and eaten over the 10 days fiesta. Activists unequivocally labelled feasting on dog meat as unthinkable and cruel.
But in a country like Nigeria, where protests from animal rights activists are virtually non-existent, the dog meat market is booming. Hence, dog slayers in Nigeria are having a field day. Dog meat is sold at street corners and eaten by a broad spectrum of people in various parts of the country, especially Akwa-Ibom, Calabar, Ondo, Cross River and Lagos, among others.
The animals are shipped mainly from Northern Nigeria into places like Calabar, Ibadan and Lagos. Dogs could also be bought from individuals who want to sell. The dogs are typically crammed into small cages or put in a sack because of their ferociousness. They are then released into the waiting hands of dog butchers who hack them to death and cut into edible pieces.
According to researchers, an estimated 25 million dogs are killed and consumed annually all over the world. This recent data illustrate that dog meat business is a multi-million dollar trade. Although this statistics do not show specifically the population of dog meat killed and eaten in Nigeria, many of the dealers that spoke to Saturday Sun attest that the demand for the meat is rising by the day and no matter how many dogs they kill, there are always buyers waiting for them. This, probably explains why those who sell dog meat are not in a hurry to look into other businesses.
Due to clever marketing, dog meat in many parts of Nigeria, for example Calabar, is fast becoming a mainstream food, which is served like any other delicacy in restaurants, with multiple choices of side dishes and beverages.
Initially, dog meat was restricted to certain area where it is mostly served with palm wine. But now, business savvy dog meat sellers now sell it with a medley of things; dog meat pepper soup, dog meat and white rice, dog meat and plantain, dog meat with periwinkle sauce, dog meat with boiled yam. People in the village prefer it with plantain. It is also roasted like suya meat.
In Lagos, Ijesa and Okota areas are notorious flourishing dog meat joints, where buyers troop to buy and feast on the delicacy. They are also found in Ikoyi, Ogba and Bariga, all in Lagos.
Buying a dog is very expensive. The prices range between N12,000 and N18,000 depending on the size. In some restaurants, a small piece of this meat is usually sold for N100. The head goes for between N1,000 and N1,500, while the lap attracts as much as N2,500, N3,000 and N4,000 depending on the size. The intestine popularly called “Telephone” is sold between N1,500 and N1,800, depending on the size.
Emmanuel Edem of Commy Restaurant Ikeja, who is from Creek Town, Calabar, Cross River State, says people planning parties come to specially book for dog meat and are charged between N20,000 and N25,000.
Connoiesseurs of dog meat argue that it is their own way of relaxing with something exotic. According to Mr. Ubong Obot, a 42 -year -old Lagos-based indigene of Cross-River State, there is absolutely nothing wrong with eating dog meat. “I enjoy eating it. It is a thing of choice and those who frown at it probably have nothing else to frown at. Eating dog meat is something as old as our culture, our forefathers ate dog meat and we grew up learning to eat dog meat and by all standards, it is okay,” he says proudly in a chat with Saturday Sun.
Emmanuel Henshaw a native of Calabar, says he has been eating dog meat right from when he was small. “My mum’s elder sister married a soldier. She took me as her son, because she was barren. She used to kill and sell dog meat. I can’t stay for a week without eating dog meat. If you keep dog meat side by side goat meat, I will take dog meat and throw away the goat. I have introduced people to it and they come here on their own now to eat it. A friend I introduced to it, eats more than myself now. I go to Ogba, Bariga and Ijesha to eat dog meat. A friend of mine called Henry lost his mother and he has promised to kill two dogs for us”.
Austine Etim, also from Akwa Ibom State, says the dog meat menu cures malaria, because of the condiments and all the ingredients used in preparing it. “It gives me more protein than cow meat. I can compare the meat with bush meat. Sometimes, it tastes like antelope. I eat it about two or three times a day. I eat other meat, but I love dog more.”
Killing the dogs
A lot of people wonder how this animal is killed, considering its ferocious nature. Maxwell Akpan, a native of Akwa Ibom State, told Saturday Sun that he started slaying dogs at the age of five. According to him, he learnt how to kill dog from his grandfather. The three weapons needed to kill a dog are an improvised long rod hooked on the dog’s neck to keep still, a machete and an iron cudgel. He explains further on how a dog is killed: “If you want to kill it, use an iron called “Talk True” and put it on the dog’s neck and draw it from the cage. There is a hook on the iron where a rope is tied, put it on the dog’s neck and then draw it. After drawing it, you then use the rod and smash strongly on the head. The dog would be unconscious. Then use the machete and cut the neck.”
Though it sounds so simple, there are some stubborn dogs that could be difficult to kill. This requires patience and a professional who has been in the business of killing dogs for sometime.
Akpan confirmed the saying that dogs do recognise those who killed their breed when they sight them. He said: “Yes. Dogs bark at dog killers each time they see them, because dogs perceive the odour on any dog killer”.
Preparation
To prepare the delicacy, a dog has to be cleaned before it is cooked. “This is not an easy task”, says Emmanuel Edem of Commy Restaurant. Edem, who has been in the business for 15 years, says: “It is a hard business, because of all the process involved in preparing it. After slaughtering it, we burn it using kerosene, wash it with soap and sponge to remove the smell of the kerosene. After, you scrape it with razor blade, before cutting it. Then, wash the intestine and tie it together and then wash. It is ready for cooking. First, parboil it with salt and ogogoro (Local gin). The quantity of the ogogoro you use would depend on the quantity of the meat.”
Edem explains: “The ogogoro gives it a different taste and also makes it hot and pepperish. Dog meat is like fish, so it needs much pepper so as not to make one throw up after eating it. The pepper and ogogoro would make it hot. After parboiling with ogogoro, you add pepper and boil for sometime before adding scent leaf”.
Just like goat meat, there are some dogs with strong skin, so it has to be boiled very well to be soft for human consumption. There are also some with soft skin. However, unlike goat meat or any other meat, dog meat cannot last for more than 24 hours else it would go bad.”
Patrons
Mr. Edem revealed that people from all walks of life come from different parts of Lagos to buy dog meat. “It is good for human consumption. If you eat dog meat, you would hardly fall sick”, he assured.
Robison Asuquo told Saturday Sun that gone were the days when eating of dog meat was attributed to people from Akwa Ibom and Cross River States. Today people from other tribes have found love in dog meat. He narrated a story. “My sister is married in Imo State and each time I go to visit her, her husband takes me to a joint where they sell dog meat. So it is not only people from Cross River and Akwa Ibom that eat dog meat. I have friends from other tribes that eat it.
Dog meat popularly referred to as ‘four-o-four’ in the local parlance has other names worldwide. In some parts of Ghana, it is referred to as ‘dokuus’ or ‘red goat’. In Indonesia, fried dog meat is called ‘rintek wuuk’ and in China it is called ‘xiangrou’.